EUROPE 2019: Poland 22-25 May

POZNAN

Wednesday 22 May

Early breakfast, then off to Poznan in Poland,half way between Berlin and Warsaw. Crossed Oder river into Poland around 9:30am and stopped in Poznan for lunch. We all scattered to choose a café and were warned to ask for the bill in advance as we only had 2 hours. Our café was understaffed and the 5 tourists who chose it had a long wait for menus and food. The food was OK but the most interesting aspect was the underground bar with amusing signs on the toilets.

Stanislaus was the last king of Poland, abdicating in 1795.


Executioner or monk?

Photo opportunity

WARSAW Warsaw seems to be a city under perpetual building and restoration. Most of it was razed in WW2 but residents started rebuilding as soon as they returned, using much of the material on site.
Sigismund's Column, originally erected in 1644, is located in Castle Square


Brackets at Warsaw university

Marshall Pilsudski

This amazing man was a socialist revolutionary who engineered Polish independence in 1918 and became head of state. He then successfully defended Poland against the Russian Red Army.

Chopin Monument next to the Botanical Garden in Łazienki Park

Above and below: at the Museum of History of Polish Jews

1.8 to 1.9 million Polish civilians (non-Jews) and 3 million Polish Jews were victims of German Occupation policies and the war.

Memorial to those killed by Russians or sent to Russian labour camps

Presidential Palace - in front, a group of demonstrators

Staszic Palace, the seat of the Polish Academy of Sciences

Copernicus, 1830 bronze

Soon after the Nazi German occupation of Warsaw in 1939, the Germans effaced the Latin and Polish inscriptions and attached a plaque in German language: "To Nicolaus Copernicus [from] the German Nation".^... After the Warsaw Uprising, in which the monument was damaged, the Germans decided to melt it down. They removed it to Nysa, but had to retreat before they could melt it down. The Poles brought the monument back to Warsaw on 22 July 1945, renovated it, and unveiled it again on 22 July 1949. (Wikipedia)

Artisans in one street showcased their offerings by painting scenes.

Shoemakers and animals providing leather

Palace of Culture and Science, Art Deco Stalinist, 231m, tallest building in Poland

Friday 24 May

Our next stop was Częstochowa, 220km from Warsaw, and famous for Jasna Gora monastery. It is devoted to worship of the "Black Madonna", an icon dating back to 13^th C.

In 1430 the icon was attacked and 4 diagonal slashes on the right cheek are still visible after restoration. In 1656 King John Casimir appointed the 'Blessed Mother' Queen of Poland. Pope John Paul 11, President Kennedy and many others revere this icon. Pilgrims walk around the altar on hands and knees. 11,000 votive offerings have been made.

The icon is 'dressed' in a ruby or diamond frame on most occasions, but other dresses have been made. It is set on an ebony altar.

Mass was in progress when we entered. Pilgrims may follow the same route around the icon as we did, but on their knees.

Entrance gate

Monastery tower

Road up to the monastery

Auschwitz is 86km from Częstochowa, a bleak contrast to the grandeur of Jasna Gora. Here we were confronted with many photographs, artefacts and buildings, all testifying to the horror Jews and others suffered. Most poignant for me were the faces of children, bewildered, wondering what was happening. There was no mercy for them. Also chilling was the room full of human hair and a big carpet made from it. Our guide commented that the wife of the camp commandant found it the best place she’d ever lived in. Her large house did not overlook the camp.

Boarding a train

Sorting goods

Shoes left on the 'shelves' when the Allies arrived

Inmates were separated according to sex and ethnicity

Gas chamber

Ovens

Execution wall

KRAKOW

Saturday 25 May

City tour, beginning with Jewish quarter and culminating in walk up to Wawel Castle.

Only a few hundred Jews in city now

Catholic church

6 different pierogi, all tasting bland but beer was good

Market square

Wawel Castle

Serving as a royal residence and the site where the country's rulers governed Poland for five centuries (1038-1596), this castle is a symbol of the independent Polish state and today contains a priceless collection of 16th-century Flemish tapestries, considered to be one of the largest in the world. (Trip Advisor)

Unfortunately, we were only able to roam the grounds.

After lunch, we had an interesting visit to Wieliczka Salt Mine which reaches a depth of 327 meters, and extends via horizontal passages and chambers for over 287 kilometers (178 miles). Since the 13th century, brine welling up to the surface had been collected and processed. Many chambers were dug^[5] and various technologies were added, such as the Hungarian horse treadmill and the Saxon treadmill for hauling salt to the surface.The mine features an underground lake, exhibits on the history of salt mining, and a 3.5-kilometer (2.2-mile) visitors' route (less than 2% of the mine passages' total length) including statues carved from the rock salt at various times. In 1978 the Wieliczka was placed on the original UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites. (Wikipedia)

Huge timbers used in this structure

Wall carvings include Last Supper

Several pools

One of many dining halls for hire

Dinner with entertaining gypsy group singing and dancing. Food started with bread and lard or tzatziki-like spread. Lard was just as bad as it sounds. Main course and dessert were ok, but unmemorable. Unlimited drinks from spirits to wine or beer. Everyone happy and joined in dances, clapped in time. Karaoke on way back to hotel.